The rise of the small wine list
The changing liquor laws aren't just about cocktails and beer bars - with luck they'll revolutionise the wine scene, too. Wine importer, ex-sommelier and new Time Out columnist Chris Morrison rings in the changes
Sydney's costly, lengthy bar application process has been streamlined and made more affordable, allowing smaller operators to sell wine, beer and spirits. The liberalisation of the archaic system will go a long way to bringing a vibrant restaurant/wine bar and café culture to our city.
With the possibility many small wine lists appearing in Sydney literally overnight, wine distributors are poised to work with small venues in creating pint sized wine programs.
But before we get drunk on anticipation, it's vital to look at these small venues in a sobering light.
In terms of content, wine buyers have never had it so good. With the heat of the 2008 vintage still warm in the bricks of many wineries there is a healthy fruit crop on the way, up 35 per cent from the rain, frost and bushfire affected 2007 harvest. The growing sophistication of Sydney wine buffs has also meant a jump in quality and affordable imports from France, Italy, Spain and Argentina.
Many restaurants seeking to make the gastronomic connection between the traditional inspirations for their food have slowly increased their imported wine listings. Imports should always be anchored with good Aussie content from the embarrassment of riches in our world-class wine regions
Your local wine guy should have good knowledge of wine regions and varieties and a familiarity with the vintages listed. A good small wine list should always have interest, value and balance - not a compilation of ‘Top 40' wines that you can buy at the bottlo for half the price.
As a former Sydney sommelier, I was a card-carrying member of the ‘Times Three Club'. Many journalists have started to ‘name and shame' restaurants for their wine margins ignoring the fact soaring food costs would slam the doors shut on some of our best eateries if it wasn't for the money they make on beverages. Pricing should be consistent, not in peaks and troughs.
Ask for house wines - there's a quality cleanskin lake to be soaked up by small operators at a great price - and don't be afraid to test the knowledge of the sommelier serving you. In wine there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.
The Grape Ape's official pick of Sydney's best small wine lists
Bistro Ortolan 134 Marion St Leichhardt, 2040. (02 9568 4610)
Glebe Point Diner 407 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe 2037. (02 9660 2646)
Vini 3/118 Devonshire St, Surry Hills, 2010, (02 9698 5131)
Bodega 216-224 Commonwealth St Surry Hills, 2010, (02 9212 7766)
Delicado Foods Shop 2/134 Blues Point Rd, McMahons Point, 2060. (02 9955 9399)
Shop and Wine 76 Curlewis St Bondi Beach 2026 (02 9365 2600)